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Restoring Unevenly Finished Grandfather Clock
Posted by HomeGuild Experts in
Wood Refinishing
Tuesday, September 18. 2007
Digit75 of CA writes: I have a grandfather clock that was my grandparents, the wood is mohagany and i belive that it has an oil finish to bring out the natural color of the wood. The problem with it is that it is a very uneven finish and I was looking on refinishing it and still would like to have the natural look to it but shinny like a shalic or varnish finish to it. Question is how do i safley strip the oil finish so i can refinish it evenly.Urban Revivals replies: The trouble (and benefit) of repeated oil finishes, is that it deeply penetrates the wood, and the wood may take it unevenly, particularly if the wood has prominent graining, or if it was originally sanded unevenly or exposed to moisture. In addition, though it may not be apparent, there may also be coatings of shellac or varnish, over the original sealing with oil -- whether it be linseed, tung, or some other popular oil.
Continue reading "Restoring Unevenly Finished Grandfather Clock"
Restoring Old Pine Floor - Protective Finishes
Posted by HomeGuild Experts in
Wood Refinishing
Friday, June 22. 2007
Tootie of VA writes: We are refinishing a yellow pine floor in our 1800's home's kitchen. We have dogs that live indoors. What product do you recommend for the best possible protection from traffic, wear, and doggie nails?
Urban Revivals replies: It sounds as if you've got the hard part well in hand, with lifting old stains, sanding, and restaining. For a finish coat, we recommend commercial Fabulon Crystal 2 Floor finish, available by mail order from floor specialty floors, or Varathane finishes (available at the big box stores and local hardware store). No finish will prevent dog nail scratches. Your best bet is to use a period-compatible floor covering, such as a decorative oil cloth rug.
Stair Risers sanded too thinly to refinish
Alligatored Veneer on Old Pool Table
Lincrusta Glue and Glazing Techniques
Using Lincrusta - Question on Installation and Glazing
Posted by HomeGuild Experts in
Glazes and Compounds
Wednesday, March 28. 2007
Lindsey of Dallas writes: I have specified lincrusta in a job and would like to provide instructions on installation and glazing. I would like it to be painted then gone over with a glaze of a slightly darker color. How can I make sure this is done correctly?
Urban Revivals replies: Lincrusta is typically hung using a very tacky clay-based wall adhesive. It is not your standard wallpaper adhesive. It is stronger than even the border adhesive used for heavy vinyl wallpaper. We know that Sherwin-Williams carries such a paste. You should also follow any instructions that come with your Lincrusta; the weights of each paper can differ, so care must be taken in hanging it. Lincrusta can be primed and painted with an oil or water-based paint. If you want a slight antiquing effect, you can mix raw umber universal pigment into Polycrilic from Minwax, and brush this on the Lincrusta after the base coats are very thoroughly dry. For a more pronounced antiquing, you can mix Rottenstone (a grey-brown fine powdered stone) into a soft beeswax, and rub that into crevices, and wipe-off. You can use any of a myriad of other antiquing techniques as well. Just remember, it has to be done once the Lincrusta is hung, so you can not use any technique that drips. Because Lincrusta is heavy, it is typically applied in shorter sections of 4-6 feet (or whatever the installer can handle). It is easier with 2 people.
Removing Concrete and Glue over Historic Tile Floor
Preparing Varathane top coat for new kitchen cabinets
Posted by HomeGuild Experts in
Wood Refinishing
Saturday, March 24. 2007
John of La Verne CA writes: How should I prepare wood cabinets with a varathane finish for painting? It there something easier than sanding?
Urban Revivals replies: We have to assume from your question that the cabinets are unfinished. Unfinished cabinets should be sanded with 120 grit paper (if the wood is quite coarse), followed by 180 grit. You can start with 180 grit if the cabinets are "finish ready". Some cabinets are already pre-sanded and may be simply rubbed down with 000-grade steel wool. We know of no way to avoid sanding, and sanding occurs several times throughout the finishing process. Even if you are striving for a natural-looking finish, we would recommend that you use a natural or other light-colored wood stain, prior to applying a Varathane finish. Most clients find that staining accentuates the grain, and that the finish is more pleasing than applying a Varathane alone. Can you not sand, and apply a Varathane finish? Yes, but you will find that the grain will rise a bit, and leave you with a slightly rough finish, and you will not have the smooth glow of a well-finished cabinet. You'll then find yourself sanding the Varathane top coat trying to "recover" a smooth wood finish. Better to do it the right way - sand first, stain, sand again with a very fine grit, stain again, allow to dry, and apply 2-3 top clear coats. At the end, buff with 000 or 0000 steel wool. It is a lot of work; more details can be found in these books on wood refinishing
.
Urban Revivals replies: We have to assume from your question that the cabinets are unfinished. Unfinished cabinets should be sanded with 120 grit paper (if the wood is quite coarse), followed by 180 grit. You can start with 180 grit if the cabinets are "finish ready". Some cabinets are already pre-sanded and may be simply rubbed down with 000-grade steel wool. We know of no way to avoid sanding, and sanding occurs several times throughout the finishing process. Even if you are striving for a natural-looking finish, we would recommend that you use a natural or other light-colored wood stain, prior to applying a Varathane finish. Most clients find that staining accentuates the grain, and that the finish is more pleasing than applying a Varathane alone. Can you not sand, and apply a Varathane finish? Yes, but you will find that the grain will rise a bit, and leave you with a slightly rough finish, and you will not have the smooth glow of a well-finished cabinet. You'll then find yourself sanding the Varathane top coat trying to "recover" a smooth wood finish. Better to do it the right way - sand first, stain, sand again with a very fine grit, stain again, allow to dry, and apply 2-3 top clear coats. At the end, buff with 000 or 0000 steel wool. It is a lot of work; more details can be found in these books on wood refinishing
.
Oil of Water-based Varathane
Posted by HomeGuild Experts in
Wood Refinishing
Saturday, March 24. 2007
Ken of Stockton CA writes: Can I use an oil based varathane over a coat of water based varathane or should I sand out the water based coat first?
Urban Revivals replies: We wouldn't recommend it. While sanding would certainly help ensure it would bond, the possibility exists of adding a very slight white haze to your top coat due to the sanding itself between layers (affecting the reflectivity of the undercoat). Though, I've read of others doing this, and then applying an oil poly and achieving pleasing results. The key, is, apparently, to ensure the water-based layer has thoroughly cured. I would have to believe, however, that the durability of the finish is somewhat compromised as a result of the general incompatibility between the two. I'd try it in a test area first before sanding the whole floor. To get more details, view this varathane floor finishing tutorial.
Urban Revivals replies: We wouldn't recommend it. While sanding would certainly help ensure it would bond, the possibility exists of adding a very slight white haze to your top coat due to the sanding itself between layers (affecting the reflectivity of the undercoat). Though, I've read of others doing this, and then applying an oil poly and achieving pleasing results. The key, is, apparently, to ensure the water-based layer has thoroughly cured. I would have to believe, however, that the durability of the finish is somewhat compromised as a result of the general incompatibility between the two. I'd try it in a test area first before sanding the whole floor. To get more details, view this varathane floor finishing tutorial
.
Glazing has worn off floor tile
Posted by HomeGuild Experts in
Tile Restoration
Thursday, March 22. 2007
MB of West VA writes: I have a tile bath that is about 80 years old. Some of the finish is worn off the tiles, and the grout, which is concrete, is stained. Is there any way of refinishing or "painting" the tiles, and can the grout be stained? The grout cannot be ground out, even with a Dremmel tool, it is too hard. The tiled walls are in good shape, only the floors are worn.
Urban Revivals writes: We have to assume that the glazing on the tile has been worn off, which means the tiles have had a lot of heavy use, and will (presumably) continue to do so. For historic tiles and art tiles, which usually have a glossy finish in a bathroom, we can make small spot repairs with Testor Enamels (model airplane paint enamels) and match the high gloss, and then coat with an epoxy clear coat. We would not recommend this for areas of heavy wear. Unless the tiles have significant historic value, we would recommend replacement.
If the grout is a portland concrete as opposed to a softer composition, you should be able to grind out it out a bit using a #562 Dremel tile cut bit, but this may be impossible to freehand, and could nick the tiles. However, if you can create a guide and control the tool, it should allow you to make a channel for regrouting. If it is concrete and you cannot re-grout, you could also use H&C concrete stain to tint the grout (from Sherwin Williams), but you would have to tape each tile (since the glazing has been worn off, some staining of the tile could possibly occur). While concrete stains are quite penetrating, you should expect it to very gradually wear off. This historic tile preservation manual provides intensive details about the restoration and conservation of valuable historic tiles.
Urban Revivals writes: We have to assume that the glazing on the tile has been worn off, which means the tiles have had a lot of heavy use, and will (presumably) continue to do so. For historic tiles and art tiles, which usually have a glossy finish in a bathroom, we can make small spot repairs with Testor Enamels (model airplane paint enamels) and match the high gloss, and then coat with an epoxy clear coat. We would not recommend this for areas of heavy wear. Unless the tiles have significant historic value, we would recommend replacement.
If the grout is a portland concrete as opposed to a softer composition, you should be able to grind out it out a bit using a #562 Dremel tile cut bit, but this may be impossible to freehand, and could nick the tiles. However, if you can create a guide and control the tool, it should allow you to make a channel for regrouting. If it is concrete and you cannot re-grout, you could also use H&C concrete stain to tint the grout (from Sherwin Williams), but you would have to tape each tile (since the glazing has been worn off, some staining of the tile could possibly occur). While concrete stains are quite penetrating, you should expect it to very gradually wear off. This historic tile preservation manual
provides intensive details about the restoration and conservation of valuable historic tiles.
Removing small droplets of splattered paint from furniture
Posted by HomeGuild Experts in
Glazes and Compounds, Wood Refinishing
Thursday, March 22. 2007
Mariah of TN writes: It was my first time painting and I was convinced I didn't need to cover everything with sheets. Come to find out I got paint splatters all over an antique dresser. Is there a way to get the paint off without damaging the finish to the dresser?
Urban Revivals replies: Generally, with small splatters of latex paint, you can go over to the piece of furniture and dislodge the small dots of paint with your fingernail, if you do this within 12 hours or so of painting. Otherwise, we find turpentine often works very well, and will not harm the finish of most modern or antique pieces. Take an absorbant lint-free rag (a white T-shirt or paper towel sold for such purposes), and saturate a portion of it with clean turpentine (not paint thinner). Use real turpentine not artists turpentine. It will smell a bit, so open some windows. Rub the rag over the paint spots until the spots wipe off, or soften just a little bit so you can fleck them off with your fingernail. Do not scrape, or you may damage the finish underneath. If this does not work, you will have to experiment with stronger solvents. Which solvent depends on the underlying finish already on the furniture. As you rub, check regularly to ensure you are not lifting or clouding the original finish. And, once done, wipe down the piece of furniture to remove any residual turpentine. This Black and Decker guide provides a very good overview of paint types, paint preparation, and solvents -- good for any beginner.
Urban Revivals replies: Generally, with small splatters of latex paint, you can go over to the piece of furniture and dislodge the small dots of paint with your fingernail, if you do this within 12 hours or so of painting. Otherwise, we find turpentine often works very well, and will not harm the finish of most modern or antique pieces. Take an absorbant lint-free rag (a white T-shirt or paper towel sold for such purposes), and saturate a portion of it with clean turpentine (not paint thinner). Use real turpentine not artists turpentine. It will smell a bit, so open some windows. Rub the rag over the paint spots until the spots wipe off, or soften just a little bit so you can fleck them off with your fingernail. Do not scrape, or you may damage the finish underneath. If this does not work, you will have to experiment with stronger solvents. Which solvent depends on the underlying finish already on the furniture. As you rub, check regularly to ensure you are not lifting or clouding the original finish. And, once done, wipe down the piece of furniture to remove any residual turpentine. This Black and Decker guide
provides a very good overview of paint types, paint preparation, and solvents -- good for any beginner.
Creating Smooth Painted White Finishes
Posted by HomeGuild Experts in
Wood Refinishing
Thursday, March 22. 2007
Chan of DC writes: I am trying to build a piece of wood furniture and I can't seem to get a smooth white painted finish. Some unevenness of the panel of wood always shows. However, I seen to see this kind of furniture everywhere and they look just fine. It's driving me crazy.
Do I need to sand more or am I using the wrong paint etc? My wood is mahogany.
Urban Revivals replies: We have to wonder why you would paint such a beautiful wood, but we'll set those thoughts aside. It is a tight grained wood, but like all woods, the grain will raise up once painted with any paint. Latex (water-based) paints cause the grain to rise more than oil-based paints, which is what you are experiencing in your rough finish. First, you'll have less problems if you apply your paint with commercial paint spraying equipment -- but that probably is not what you have at hand. So, for home finishers, I would recommend the following: First, sand and steel wool (000 grade) your wood. Vacuum off all dust, use a tack cloth to remove any residual steel wool, and spray the wood with a Kilz or Zinnser spray white primer. It will take several passes of the spray. Spray lightly - do not allow drips to appear. Allow to dry 8 hours. Steel wool again thoroughly until smooth. Use a spray can white for your paint coats. It will probably take 3-4 coats until you are satisfied. After two coats, let dry thoroughly and use steel wool to sand again. Likewise, sand again with steel wool once all finish coats are complete. By this time, you will be wishing you had stained the wood! For best results, we like using a flat spray paint, and then creating a satin finish with a spray acrylic or artists varnish spray. After all the steel wool buffing, you should have a very smooth finish. (If our original piece was very rough, you will need to use 0 or 00 grade wool, or a sander with 180 grit, to achieve the base coat you need for the primer). As you've discovered, creating a flawless white finish is very hard work, as any blemish will catch the eye. For those working with furniture, these painted furniture how-to books
can provide more details on the steps involved.Fixative for Preserving Height Markings on Home Walls
Posted by HomeGuild Experts in
Glazes and Compounds
Sunday, March 18. 2007
Murr of New Mexico writes: I have a solid wood closet door from my Mother's 57 yr. old house. The back contains many pencil marks measuring the heights of many children in our family at different ages. I would like to protect the markings so they will not be rubbed off over time. I was thinking of spraying the door with the markings with Varathane Glear Sealer. Would this be a good idea for preserving the markings or could you give me better suggestions?
Urban Revivals replies: We'd recommend you use a spray fixative that artists use for charcoal drawings and pastels, first. An example is Prismacolor's spray fixitive as shown here at MisterArt. It is acrylic based and water clear. I'd empty your closet, apply several coats allowing to dry between coats. There is nothing specific to this brand, but I would be included to choose an art product recommended for use over charcoal or pastels, for best results.
Older Trimwork Stained Cherry but Turning White and Cloudy
Posted by HomeGuild Experts in
Glazes and Compounds, Wood Refinishing
Saturday, March 17. 2007
Jack of KY writes: Our home is about 12-13 years old. the wood work is yellow poplar. It is stained with a cherry stain. In many places the finish is turning white. We were told the finish what polyurethane but don't know for sure since the contractor finished the wood in his shop before being installed. There are places where there are runs and they are white. Nearly all of the trim in the bathrooms have turned white.
Urban Revivals replies: I suspect, since the bathrooms are degrading the most, and whitish changes are occuring in streaks, that moisture with shellac is the culprit. Your contractor probably used a shellac finish. Why? It dries really quick, takes 2 -3 coats quickly, can be dissolved with alcohol if he wants to cut the finish, and can be sanded to baby smooth really fast. But, it is a bad finish around water. It turns white or clouds or blushes, as they say. This will happen in bathrooms first, near entryways, and in anyplace where the walls may be exposed to moisture. It will also happen if moisture is getting into the wood from behind the walls. As an experiment, take some denatured alcohol and see if you can soften the finish. If this makes the finish sticky, this is probably what is going on. Old shellac will also cloud when used, because it has absorbed moisture. The solution, as you've guessed, is to strip, restain, and seal with a water-based urethane or interior/exterior fast dry oil based polyurethane. (We don't recommend varnish for moldings around door casings and walls in regular or high-use areas). These guides to refinishing specifically address lacquers, varnishes, shellacs and other glazes as applied to wood finishes.
Urban Revivals replies: I suspect, since the bathrooms are degrading the most, and whitish changes are occuring in streaks, that moisture with shellac is the culprit. Your contractor probably used a shellac finish. Why? It dries really quick, takes 2 -3 coats quickly, can be dissolved with alcohol if he wants to cut the finish, and can be sanded to baby smooth really fast. But, it is a bad finish around water. It turns white or clouds or blushes, as they say. This will happen in bathrooms first, near entryways, and in anyplace where the walls may be exposed to moisture. It will also happen if moisture is getting into the wood from behind the walls. As an experiment, take some denatured alcohol and see if you can soften the finish. If this makes the finish sticky, this is probably what is going on. Old shellac will also cloud when used, because it has absorbed moisture. The solution, as you've guessed, is to strip, restain, and seal with a water-based urethane or interior/exterior fast dry oil based polyurethane. (We don't recommend varnish for moldings around door casings and walls in regular or high-use areas). These guides to refinishing
specifically address lacquers, varnishes, shellacs and other glazes as applied to wood finishes.Painting a Wood Floor White - or Staining - or Pickling
Posted by HomeGuild Experts in
Faux Finish Techniques, Wood Refinishing
Saturday, March 17. 2007
Dana R of TX writes: Is is possible to paint or stain pine floors white? Which is best? And what about maintenance?
Urban Revivals replies: White stains, unfortunately, do not permeate wood like darker stains. In fact, darker stains are more like a dye, and therefore take better. White stains are dry pigments suspended in an oil or acrylic base, and therefore tend to stay on the surface of the wood planks. I would recommend a paint. Use 2 coats of primer at least. You can use a latex paint - 2 coats minimum. Use the best grade possible, and seal with 3-4 coats of Varathane diamond clear floor finish. If you are doing any stencilwork, do it on top of the paint, and then seal. If you want a slightly rustic look, get a slightly darker version of your white paint, dilute it 1 part paint to 3 parts water, and brush on a final coat and wipe it off. This will bring out the graining a bit more, if you have old historic floor. Allow paint to dry thoroughly (several days) before sealing. Use a white pickling stain only if you want the underlying color of the wood to show through. For inspiration, click here for painted floor design books.
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